My captivating journey through one of the oldest cities in the world

Yerevan is the ideal counterpoint to the tourist-filled cities of western Europe. Landlocked and nestled deep in the Caucasus, the Armenian capital has a unique air that’s quietly addictive. Rugged Soviet-era architecture mingles with brutalist tenement blocks, and hearty meals are accompanied by potent mulberry oghi (moonshine) and incredibly sweet pomegranate wine.

This is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and there are ancient temples just a short drive from the city centre. Mystical Mount Ararat watches over the city and is said to be the resting place of Noah’s Ark; the attention-grabbing peak appearing to float above the horizon on clear days, creating a spectacular display.